Mr. Wong is one of the pioneers in the Western-Chinese fusion dining scene. The term ‘Western-Chinese’ means that the restaurant’s decor is Western-inspired, but the cuisine primarily follows the Cantonese culinary tradition.
Situated in a small alleyway off Wynyard Street, this 240-seat restaurant was transformed from what was once the Tank club, one of Sydney’s original nightclubs (probably only remembered by Sydney locals from the 90s). As for the inspiration, it’s evident everywhere, whether it’s the paintings on the walls or the furnishings. It exudes a strong Old Shanghai nightclub vibe, making it perhaps the most suitable nightclub transformation.
As a restaurant, Mr. Wong cleverly divides itself into three distinct areas. As you enter through the main entrance, you find the largest and most luxurious Chinese dining area. Mr. Wong, known for its Cantonese cuisine, naturally includes a dim sum tea house section. Descend the stairs slowly, taking in the posters on the walls, and you’ll reach the semi-private lower-level area. Order a pot of tea, a few small dishes, and gather with a few friends for a delightful conversation.
Mr. Wong – The food and menu
The menu features faded photos from that era, and even the drink menu names all the beverages after Chinese place names, adding a unique and novel touch.
Here, you can savour dishes like Peking duck, abalone dumplings, king crab fried rice, steamed or sashimi lobster, creative dim sum, and traditional Cantonese stir-fries.
Many Cantonese tea snacks and dishes are given unconventional and innovative pairings. While traditional Cantonese food enthusiasts might find the flavours somewhat different, those who enjoy exploring fusion flavours, especially Westerners, will find it intriguing. The blend of Chinese elements and the ambience make it worth a try.
A must-try is the roast duck, which can be enjoyed in two ways. The crispy-skinned, tender roast duck, cooked to perfection, is a favourite among diners, especially when dipped in plum sauce—a truly authentic Cantonese way to savour it. The second option is the crispy duck skin, enjoyed either plain or wrapped in thin pancakes, along with a touch of scallions and cucumber shreds, dipped in sweet sauce. The taste is extraordinary!
The remaining dishes include salt and pepper calamari and stir-fried green beans. While these dishes might lean more towards Shanghainese cuisine, as some of us noted, these variations actually fit the theme of Old Shanghai and resonate with the heart of a Shanghai native like myself. The green beans are stir-fried at high heat with rich oil and red sauce, offering a slightly sweet, meaty flavour that pairs perfectly with rice.
The salt and pepper calamari is perfectly crispy without being excessively greasy. The exterior is crunchy, and the squid inside is delightfully chewy.
Saving the best for last is the Emperor’s Fried Rice, a dish that many prominent Cantonese restaurants seem to favour.